My mini guide to Istanbul.
We came. We saw. We ate. We drank so much water and immediately sweat it out. We stuck our heads in the freezer from time to time and wished we could just jump into the Bosphorus from time to time (we didn’t). Istanbul is a massive city (15 million people) and there is more ground to cover than any sane person could manage in one year. I went for one week with my friend Jonathan (bestie from Architecture School).
The Overview–
Istanbul is an old city. An ancient city. The city spans two continents– Asia and Europe. It’s separated by a body of water, The Bosphorus Straight. It’s in Turkey. There are 15 million people. That’s 7 million more than New York City. It is a dizzying maze of winding streets, speeding taxis and glorious smells. It is old and modern and traditional and increasingly changing. There is fast and hectic and there is also slow, like grandfathers fishing on piers and food that takes days to make. I don’t actually have appropriate words to describe it. Hopefully the photos help.
My Itinerary–
I went for 7 days. I stayed in the bohemian Cihangir neighborhood, though I only spent a bit of time there. It was a great location– close to the water and the historic sites (Hagia Sophia!!!) and to the city center. You could fill your entire visit with just palaces and mosques and boat rides and neighborhood strolls, if history is what you’re most into. I merely wanted to just be there, doing some exploring and understanding of the city while eating well, and hopefully getting some shopping done. I will actually choose a different neighborhood when I go back for a few reasons.
I actually loved the Anatolian / Asian side much better, and I would prefer to stay there.
OR I would want to stay in the Soho House Istanbul or in a fancy hotel (because I am a fancy hotel girl, ok?)
I loved the Bebek neighborhood that I got to see on my last day– it’s a little (a lot) bougie and I’m into it. It’s also on the water.
I saw enough of the historical sites and chaotic downtown for my taste. I prefer a different pace / experience.
The Food–
Since I was in an Airbnb, breakfast was usually out at one of the neighborhood cafes, or a simit from a cart or bakery. Or just an iced coffee while wandering. Lunch would usually be whatever we stumbled upon when we were hungry, which ended up being a great plan some days and an annoying plan other days. (Pro-tip– have some nuts and dates in your bag for hangry moments when non-touristy food doesn’t seem to be around any corner).
I usually found a place for dinner on Instagram or via suggestions from folks who had been to Istanbul, or from people we met while traveling. I didn’t discover many guides written about Istanbul, so I’m excited to tackle a better one in the future. For now, I’ll just share what I found.
Simit. Just eat them. Every morning. Only fresh, though.
Street Corn. I didn’t try it, actually!
Modern Turkish at Setup. Super yummy and a nice break from the usual.
Bol Kepce– honestly tied for the best food with Aida (see below). There is no location for it so I’ve tagged their neighbor (Anadolu Köfte) in Google Maps. It’s right next door.
Corner stores where you get in-between-meal staples like wine, chips, water (oh, you don’t drink the water in Istanbul).
Aida– so good we went here two nights in a row and I contemplated it a 3rd night (but it’s on the Asian / Anatolian side) and a bit of a trek from where I was staying but honestly worth the trip. You would not be disappointed. There aren’t many tables, so call ahead or get there early. We didn’t experience any sort of long wait, however. It is such gorgeously-created Italian with the coolest staff (of mostly women, as the chefs, too).
Tutti– super cute little bakery and deli with prepared salads and daily specials in a neighborhood called Bebek (which means baby). They don’t have a website or Instagram at the time of publishing this post.
The Sites, in no particular order–
Hagia Sophia
The Blue Mosque
Bosphorus Straight
The Grand Bazaar
Galata Bridge
many former palaces
generally walking around neighborhoods
A few sample itineraries ;)
IF YOU’RE FEELING A LITTLE BOUGIE BUT YOU ALSO LOVE SUPPORTING WOMEN-OWNED BUSINESSES.
Start your morning with breakfast and coffee at the recently-opened (and very chic looking) Rutin. After your breakfast, make your way over to Bebek, a neighborhood that feels a little bit to me like Venice Beach, CA. It’s on the water and has a lot of fancy stores (not necessarily luxury). Grab a light lunch and a selection of pastries, with coffee at Baylan, a 96-year-old pastisserie shop. Take a long walk along the water, do some shopping at Yasemin Ozeri (my personal fave), Midnight Express, Ebru Gunay, and even the Anthropologie-inspired Yargici. Stroll along the water to take in the beauty of the Bosphorus, and if you’re feeling up to it, take in the views at an ancient fortress. Happy Hour is fun and lively on the sidewalk patio at Lucca. I’d have dinner at the creative kitchen of Meg. The food is good enough that they just opened a second location in Bodrum, at the Bodrum Edition (where at press time, Lindsay Lohan is staying).
IF YOU’RE FEELING LIKE SLOWLY EXPLORING, BUT YOU ALSO WANT TO FAIRLY EASILY BUY THINGS & EAT GOOD FOOD.
Spend your day on the Anatolian side in Moda, in a neighborhood that oddly feels very European. It’s such a nice change of pace from the intense commerce and tourism of the actual European side, and that’s because it’s historically been a the residential side. Coffee first, right? (Fahriye is so charming, as is Polka). You’ll need some time to decide where to have breakfast. There are too many good choices. Choose between Morn, Fern or Story. You won’t go wrong with any of them. Then, get to exploring. Truly just walking around Moda is fun. It’s vibrant but not hectic. There are shops and cafes and bars to pop into as you adventure. Spend some time in the many record shops and vintage stores, and don’t miss Hype where most everything is neon- and made in Istanbul. Consult my Google Map for all the shops and plan your route to your own discretion. Make sure to grab limonatas for some afternoon refreshment from one of the many many cafes. Grab lunch and cocktails at aralik, But don’t fill up too much because you will want to eat at least 4 courses at Aida, which is right next door.
WORK UP AN APPETITE IN OLD-STYLE ISTANBUL, AND VISIT THE CITY’S COLORFUL JEWISH / GREEK NEIGHBORHOOD.
Ok, this is a really cool itinerary where you’ll find yourself in a formerly-grand woodworking district and see what it’s like for everyday working-class Istanbul-ians. It’s a history tour, and a look at what life is like in some less fancy parts of the city. You’ll traverse some distance today, so tuck a bag of figs, dates and walnuts in your bag and bring some water. Start early (coffee in hand) in the brightly-colored neighborhood of Fener-Balat. This is where the Jewish and Greek Orthodox settled. There’s a really good Balat itinerary here. Whether you have early or late lunch, take a taxi (or walk if you’re feeling like it) to Bol Kepce Lokantasi. Basically ‘lokanta’ means tradesman restaurants and they serve the working class who come in for simple, traditional, cheap home cooking. And it’s GOOD. There’s a roundup of others throughout the city here. Bol Kepce was my favorite, and we went there twice and loved it. It doesn’t have (or need) a website, social media, or even a google maps location so just navigate there via the restaurant located next door. This itinerary will be less fancy and more dusty so wear your tennies (or closed-toe shoes) and just walk. I’d wander around the streets there and then head back to Balat for more exploring (you’ll work up an appetite!) and then happy hour / early dinner at Smelt. Call it an early night, or head to a relaxing hammam and wash the dust and sweat off from a really cool day.
Hi, I’m Steph! I’m traveling around the world with my dog, Churro. I’m also a life coach for women founders, and a designer for women coaches who are running businesses they intend to scale.